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Buying a Horse

Before you buy a horse or pony consider the following points:

Do you have the time for the horse? Especially in the winter when the weather is bad, the day is much shorter and changes of rug may be necessary.

 Horses can be expensive to keep, do you have enough money to keep a horse? There will be costs such as: bedding, hay, feed, a regular worming programme, regular farrier visits, vets fees - at least annual vaccinations and tack.

If you have your own place do you have enough land? Will the horse have company? Horses are very sociable animals and generally like the company of other horses.

What kind of stabling will there be?

How much of the day will the horse be stabled?

Don't buy a young or inexperienced horse unless you are sure that you have the time and ability to train him.

Don't be tempted to "over horse" yourself i.e. one that is too big and strong for you.  Buy a horse that is suitable for your height and weight, and that suits your level of riding.

Buy a horse that suits your temperament, one that complements you and has a good attitude to work.

If possible try to find out answers to as many of the questions below as possible. Don't be embarrassed to try all these tests out, buying a horse is a big commitment.

  • It is always a good idea to have the potential horse "vetted" by a horse veterinarian before purchase (description of vetting stages). Not only will this give peace of mind with regard to the health and conformation of the horse but the certificate is also likely to be used to obtain insurance cover for the animal.

  1. X-rays could bring to light conditions that may not be detected.

  2. Upper respiratory tract endoscopy - this examination can reveal abnormalities.

  3. Blood Sampling - the sample can be stored for six months. it can be analysed if there is reason to suspect that the horse could have received medication prior to vetting.

  • Ask the owner about any previous injuries or vices, if the owner denies any knowledge of an injury or vice and it transpires that there was one then recompense can be sought.
  • If the horse has an affiliated record this can be checked with the relevant association.
  • Breeding can also be checked with the breed society.
  • Take someone along who knows what to look for in a horse, they will also act as a second opinion and a witness.
  • Why not loan or have a trial period before you buy to make sure that the horse is exactly what you want.  You may need to make a few allowances initially as the horse will be in unfamiliar surroundings and may take time to settle. Make sure that you have adequate insurance.
  • Take a look at the horse without tack, feel for any bumps or swellings especially on the legs.
  • If possible catch the horse and turn it out again to see how it behaves. Also try to re-catch it once you have let it go.
  • Ask the seller, or someone on their behalf, to ride the horse for you first.
  • look for signs that the seller may have been trying to subdue the horse first e.g. Are there any sweat marks or indications that the horse has already been ridden? Has the horse had access to fresh water (dehydration may tire a horse)?
  • Ride the horse in as many different environments as possible e.g. school, field and on the road.
  • Have a look at how the horse moves from the ground ( get the owner to ride the horse) before you get on yourself. Ride in different scenarios - hacking alone and in company. What is he like in traffic?
  • Get something in writing from the vendor that confirms the horse is what he is being sold as.
  • How does the horse behave going into and out of the stable?
  • What is the horse like to be tacked up?
  • Does it mind its feet being picked up?
  • Does it mind rugs?
  • Does it mind grooming, being clipped?
  • Does it mind being tied up?
  • Does it mind being away from other horses?
  • Can you ride it out on it's own?
  • Is it a problem to shoe?
  • Is it a problem to box?

Vetting Stages:

There is a code of practice issued by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and the British Veterinary Association which sets out what must be done in a standard pre-purchase exam.

Stage 1- preliminary examination

The examination is in the stable and the whole horse, including the heart at rest, eyes, mouth and teeth are inspected. Teeth are examined to give an age approximation and for problems that may affect eating or response to the bit. The horse's head, body and limbs are then inspected and palpated for normality. The back is examined and also the shoeing for foot balance.

Stage 2 - trot-up

You need a firm, non-slip surface of at least 25 metres, on which the horse is first walked in-hand and then trotted. The horse is then backed-up sharply both ways. Flexion tests and lungeing on a firm surface may be performed at this point. This is a very important stage for assessment of action and soundness, as well as being a time when neurological symptoms such as shivering may be noticed. The horse is then tacked up for the next stage. Any head shyness may be noted.

Stage 3 - strenuous exercise

The horse is exercised and the workload varies according to age, fitness and condition of the horse. This is to assess the respiratory tract and the heart - noting the recovery time, as well as monitoring the heart for abnormalities during recovery, this is a time when irregularities can be spotted. The chest and heart are checked with the saddle off and the horse is returned to the stable.

Stage 4 - period of rest

The horse is monitored in it's stable during recovery. At this time, markings are often taken and a re-inspection of the body, feet, limbs and mouth, checking for changes created by riding (e.g. soreness in the girth and saddle area).

Stage 5 - second trot, and foot inspection

A final trot is performed, sometimes straight from the box, to check for any post-exercise stiffness.

These stages do not include lungeing on a firm surface or flexion tests. Both of these can potentially help determine whether or not a horse which appears sound when trotted in-hand in straight lines has any low grade problems that may put future performance at risk.

The NFU  (Tel: 0870 840 2030) provides the following Free Country Guide to members: "Guide to buying a horse or pony."

 

For a free First Horse Owner Information pack, send a SAE to The British Horse Society. Stoneleigh Deer Park, Kenilworth, Warwickshire, CV8 2XZ.

 

 BUYER BEWARE and BE AWARE

 

If you are thinking of purchasing a horse or have recently purchased a horse, then this CLINIC is the most beneficial clinic you will ever attend. Horses are different from any other farm animal. THEREFORE require a totally different type of care, handling and approach.  We can assist you with a care and feed schedule. 

  • INTRODUCTION

  • BUYING AND SELLING

  • WHAT TO EXPECT

  • SAFETY

  • FUNDAMENTALS OF HORSEMANSHIP

  • CARE

  • MEDICAL

  • FEED

  • EQUIPMENT

  • HANDOUTS

  • SAMPLES

  • REFERENCES AND REFERRALS

  • CERTIFICATE

No horses are required to attend with students. Bring all or any questions.  The Introductory Family Fee is 195.00.  (1-3 persons in your group) Friday (optional) 5:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday 10:00 am to 5:30 pm (no lunches provided)

 ALL HORSE OWNERS ARE WELCOME.

 For locations and Dates call:   (780) 358 2839.

Located in Waskatenau, ALBERTA but travel anywhere to accommodate students. There is an event calendar in the Registration packages. Offer special group rates to groups such as 4H, Scouts Canada, Big Sisters and Big Brothers etc.. Christmas and Birthday gifts Certificates are as well available. Lynn E. Danyluk,  E - mail:   digbits@msn.com

Digger's Place Buyer Beware Clinics in Canada

Insurance tips    Legal tips    Insurance & Legal companies    Sample Sale Contract    BHS Sample Loan Agreement

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